5 Ways To Make Hooded Eyes Look Bigger With Makeup

Keeping your peepers looking big and bright when you have hooded eyes isn't the easiest task. Hooded eyes are defined by the skin fold that starts just beneath the browbone and hides the natural crease of the eyelid, so the eyes often appear smaller due to less lid surface area being visible. Because applying makeup to a hooded eye can be tricky due to the lack of visible lid space and the skin fold getting in the way, you may inadvertently be making mistakes that make your eyes look smaller without even realizing it.

Though hooded eyes are gorgeous just as they are, if you're looking to make them appear a little bigger for a more youthful, wide-eyed look, we've got five tips and tricks you need to know. Women.com spoke to New Jersey-based celebrity makeup artist Brielle Pollara, who exclusively broke down the most flattering ways to apply everything from eyeshadow, to eyeliner, to falsies. And with her expert methods, you'll also be a pro in no time.

Apply darker eyeshadow to the outer corner of the eye, slightly above the crease

Eyeshadow can be the ultimate companion for hooded eyes, as it can instantly make them look more lifted and open. "I like to keep deeper shadow toward the outer corner and blend it slightly above the crease rather than dragging it downward," Brielle Pollara tells us, exclusively. "Focus on lifting everything upward and outward," she underscores. With that in mind, apply shadow on the outer corner of the eye in upward, sweeping motions, leading up towards the temples.

If you're an eyeshadow novice, one of the easiest ways to get your shadow placement right is to use a palette that tells you where to apply each shade. Almay's Intense I-Color Enhancing Eyeshadow Palette makes placement easy because it has eye-shaped pan compartments (you can select the colors that will bring out your eye color, too!) Lorac's pro Matte and Shimmer Eyeshadow Palette is equally fool proof, as the shades go from left to right in terms of darkness, so you know the colors on the right side of the palette should stay on the outer corner of the eye.

Keep your main eyeshadow shades natural

Keep your eyeshadow shades on the natural side if you want your hooded eyes to appear bigger. Earthy tones are ideal for hooded eyes because they're less likely to overwhelm your peepers. They also won't close them off compared to the likes of bright, neon hues or super dark shadows like blacks or deep grays. Instead, browns, muted greens, and taupes/beiges will help you create an open, defined eye in a subtle way that won't emphasize your hoods.

Get your hands on an eyeshadow palette that's predominantly natural hues, as it'll give you plenty of shades to choose from, from the inner corner of the eye to the outer. Urban Decay's Naked2 Basics Matte Eyeshadow Palette contains six more subtle, wearable shades. The Delectables Earthy Essentials Eyeshadow Palette from Laura Geller also contains a shimmery shadow for your inner corner (more to come on that).

Apply a shimmer shadow in the right places

Brielle Pollara also recommends using eyeshadow or eyeliner to create strategic brightening on hooded eyes. "A soft shimmer on the visible part of the lid or inner corner can reflect light and make the eyes look more open," she says, exclusively. Just make sure you don't take it as high as the crease/hood, as this could inadvertently draw attention to the area. 

How light you go will depend on how dramatic you want the effect to be and your skin tone. On lighter skin, a super light shadow will work best to avoid adding unflattering dark shadows in your inner corner. If you have a medium or darker skin tone though, you don't necessarily have to reach for the lightest shade — just keep your product on the light side. You can use a brightening eyeshadow, eyeliner, or shadow stick, but ensure the stick product is creamy to stop the inner corner of the eye looking dry. Try Julep Eyeshadow 101 Crème-to-Powder Eyeshadow Stick in 01 Pearl Shimmer or Maybelline TattooStudio Long-Lasting Sharpenable Eyeliner Pencil in Polished White.

Pollara also suggests using a traditional eyeliner pencil on the lower waterline. "I've used this technique for years because it instantly gives the illusion of a bigger, more awake eye," she says. Much like in your inner corner, keep your product light and bright, as anything too dark could close off the eye and make it appear smaller.

Avoid thick eyeliner

Speaking of eyeliner, when putting it above the upper lash line, keep the line as thin as possible. "When applying makeup to hooded eyes, you already have less visible lid space, so a thick liner can take up a lot of that space and actually make the eyes appear smaller or heavier," Brielle Pollara says, exclusively. "I like to keep the liner very thin through the inner part of the eye and concentrate more of the definition toward the outer corner," she adds. Much like with eyeshadow, make sure your liner lifts the eyes for a more open effect. "Drawing a thin line with a small upward flick can give the eye definition without taking away too much lid space," Pollara tells us. To get that flattering, thin line that will really open up your eyes, reach for a product with am extra fine tip. Try the Ultra-Fine Liquid Eyeliner-Precision Tip from Judydoll or Physicians Formula's Eye Booster Super Slim Liquid Eyeliner.

Applying eyeliner, particularly liquid eyeliner, smoothly is notoriously tricky, so it might take some trial and error to get your perfect flick. Take time to practice when you know you've got nowhere to be and can wipe it off and start again, and try our game-changing tip that will make you a winged liner master. We've also got you covered if you need more general tips for applying eyeliner to hooded eyes.

Curl your eyelashes and apply wispy, lifted falsies

How you dress up your eyelashes can have more of an effect on opening up your hooded eyes than you think. "Curling the lashes and using a lengthening or lifting mascara can completely change the appearance of hooded eyes," Brielle Pollara exclusively reveals. That means avoiding mascaras that focus more on creating intense volume or ones that are so thick they'll weigh down and straighten your lashes. "Concentrate on getting the lashes lifted rather than using an overly heavy lash, because something too dense can cover the lid and make the eye feel smaller," she explains.

You can also use faux lashes to help open hooded eyes, just steer clear of falsies that are super heavy or dense. "A wispy, lifted lash keeps the eye looking open while still giving you definition," Pollara says. Ardell's Naked Half Lashes in 421 are wispy half lashes, so will create the illusion of more space on the inner corner of the eye for a more open effect. Ardell's Lift Effect False Eyelashes in 741 are designed to be both wispy and lifted, so they're ideal for making hooded eyes look more open. Don't worry if you struggle putting on falsies, just try this fake lash hack that will make you application pro.

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